🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.